Inspection Techniques for Print Quality on Molded Plastic - Print …
The inspection for quality also requires very simple tools like those that have been demonstrated such as feature count and template matching. After the molding process is over, the part is removed from the mold cavity manually, …  read more…

Attic mold/mildew - The Inspector's Journal Forums
I have recently developed a mold or mildew problem (not sure exactly which one or how to tell) on the underside of the roof sheathing but only on the north facing side this 2 story home. The sheath…  read more…

The mold is hiding in your house? Home Inspection
Although you always want to eliminate a mold if only for aesthetic reasons, if not the time or resources where the problem is easier to control and determine the testing of molds to see if there is a danger to health, firstit is too …  read more…

From Google Blog Search

Mold In You Home
Any type of household mold can create serious health risks to you and your family. So any time you see mold growing on the surface of concrete, make sure you take immediate action to remedy the situat…  read more…

Making Repairs To Ready Your Home For Sale
Before a buyer considers your home seriously, it must meet his needs in many ways. It must be a suitable neighborhood, commuting distance, size, layout, etc. If most of these needs are met, the buyer …  read more…

Tips for Effective Mold Removal as Older Buildings Come Under Scrutiny
Mold or similar spores are some of the most damaging waste issues that affect homes globally, especially in regions where moisture is prevalent. However, as opposed to popular opinion, DIY (Do…  read more…

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Open Question: In Texas, are these factors that could potentially get me out of my lease?
I moved into a 90 year old quadplex back on November 1st. When I moved in the house had been vacant for 6 months because it was forclosed and was just remodeled and leveled. In The beginning of December it was found that a sewage pipe had busted in the only vacant downstairs apt and urine and feces had been soaking in the wall causing mold, tons of flies and a dirty smell. Somehow the bugs are getting into my bathroom and these things fly at your mouth so unless I keep a window open they are always there.

A week after this was found the property management quit and a new company stepped forward. This new place is all about talk and no action.

In my contract it stated that I would have two A/C window units installed in my apartment immediately. This was written November 1st, 2009 and I tried weekly to get them with the first management company and when they quit I did the same with the new company. I’ve filled out work orders that are copied and stapled to my copy of my rent check to show that I’ve tried. As of February 22, 2010 I still don’t have the window untis which clearly breaches the contract. It has been winter but I live in Texas, the weather changes on a daily basis and there has been about 10 days over the past 4 months that it’s been hot enough to use the A/C.

The foundation was not properly fixed either. When it got cold the house started moving again and huge cracks are everywhere. The house would not pass inspection, I heard it from the person who gave the last bid to fix it.

All of this has been repeated over and over again and still no action, all take of promises to take care of it.Regardlesss in my contract it states that the A/C units should be there and 1/3 into my lease they’re still not there.

My old property manager told me that the reason she left is because the homeowner doesn’t want to pay for anything and stretches one issue over 4 or 5 phone calls.

Do I have a case here or what? I want to call and say that that I want this month prorated for the days I would have used my A/C, let me out of my contract at the end of this month or end of march, and pay for me to relocate because I signed a contract 4 months ago for something completely different than what I have.

Thank you for your help

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Open Question: Please Help. I am stuck. I have tried to give you all my thoughts but you still never helped. So Please help?
1. ASHI standards require a home inspector to identify and
describe the type of structure and materials of construction
before
A. testing systems scientifically.
B. evaluating each system.
C. establishing value.
D. reporting remaining usefulness.
2. A good place to begin an interior structure inspection is the
A. garage. C. basement.
B. attic. D. plumbing system.
3. Surface molds and sapstain fungi discolor wood paneling
A. and are the most common cause of wood decay.
B. but don’t cause structural damage.
C. but exist only in very dry conditions.
D. and cause a burned or charred appearance on wood surfaces.
4. To be properly vented, the foundation should have one vent for every _______ square feet
of floor space.
A. 50 C. 500
B. 150 D. 1500
5. The primary horizontal load-bearing component in a floor frame is the
A. jack stud. C. beam or girder.
B. brick pier. D. sill plate.
6. The slope of a roof is
A. the length of a rafter from the top plate to the ridge.
B. generally expressed as a percent.
C. the ratio between the units of run and units of rise of a roof.
D. determined by measuring the total height of the building.
7. One improper construction method that can result in structural weakness is
A. the use of kiln-dried lumber in structural components.
B. grading soil to direct runoff away from the structure.
C. retention of topsoil and trees on the home site.
D. construction of artificial terraces using debris and backfill.
8. Stairs are considered hazardous when
A. the height of the risers varies by more than 3/8 inch.
B. the width of the treads does not strictly comply with codes.
C. risers are less than 73/4 inches high.
D. they’re covered with carpeting.
9. Two common cosmetic flaws in gypsum wallboard include popping nails and
A. header cracks. C. sagging ceilings.
B. termite cavities. D. brown water stains.
10. Which of the following statements about dehumidifiers is true?
A. Dehumidifiers automatically dispose of water produced by their operation.
B. Dehumidifiers should have automatic shutoff devices to prevent overflow.
C. Dehumidifiers are usually found in the attic.
D. Dehumidifiers are the best method for fail-safe moisture control in basements.
11. Structural failure in a roof may be due to
A. the presence of a vapor barrier between the attic floor and the ceiling below.
B. too little span between supporting members.
C. cuts made in rafters or trusses for addition of components such as stairways and fans.
D. use of dried wood for structural members.
12. A horizontal supporting member placed between two opposite rafters is called a
A. collar tie. C. chord.
B. ridge. D. jack rafter.
13. The term live load refers to the
A. weight of the structural components only.
B. weight of the occupants and furnishings.
C. weight of the foundation walls.
D. total weight of the entire structure.
14. A load-bearing horizontal component over a wall opening is called a
A. header. C. sill plate.
B. stud. D. wall joist.
15. Sagging in floor joists is typically caused by
A. oversized joists.
B. undersized joists.
C. improper nailing of sub-flooring.
D. improper moisture content of the wood.
16. Brick ties in brick veneer walls allow for
A. water drainage. C. expansion.
B. air circulation. D. inspection.
17. While inspecting a masonry foundation, you find evidence of “efflorescence.” This is
probably due to
A. leftover residue from construction.
B. too much lime in the concrete.
C. fungus.
D. water seepage.
18. Your inspection report does not need to include information on
A. steepness of roof pitch.
B. adequacy and condition of flashing.
C. condition of solar heating system equipment.
D. type and condition of gutters and downspouts.
19. Bulging of exterior walls usually results in
A. sagging of windows.
B. a rise in the main floor beam.
C. settling of corner posts.
D. sagging of the ridge board.
20. The structural technique that includes long vertical studs running from the sill plate to the
second floor roof frame is called _______ framing.
A. platform C. balloon
B. vertical D. post

  read more…

Resolved Question: Plumbing with a combination of plastic and metal?
My wife’s parents have a leaky joint in their bathroom where the water heater connects to the shower. It’s a constant drip and they’ve been using a bucket for weeks (VERY small town, no plumbing services available).

I have fixed many a leaky faucet in the past, including the shower in my own apartment somewhat recently which led her parents to ask me to help them fix theirs. When I went over to take a look I found the setup is a little unusual and I’m not sure how to proceed.

They have a plastic pipe leading from an inaccessible hole in the wall (concrete, I’m not getting in without some heavy equipment) to a metal elbow joint, a small piece of the same plastic pipe leading to a second elbow joint, and then finally a third small plastic pipe leading into the shower pipe. All the connections and elbows are metal but the pipe leading in is plastic. I should also state that this is the hot water pipe, the plastic pipe is bright red (if that matters, I assume it’s just to tell hot from cold - cold is white). The red pipe is approximately 1″ thick, I didn’t have a tape measure handy to get its exact measurements.

Upon inspection of the setup I found that the elbow joints are heavily rusted as well as have considerable mildew/mold (green and white solid-ish sludge) all over them. They weren’t budging and I was about to back out of trying to fix it for fear of shattering one of the plastic connection pipes and causing a drip to become flooding (water was turned off of course but turning it back on would result in bad news). I was told to proceed and so I did, sure enough one of the pipes formed a crack and I stopped. They turned the water back on and it didn’t leak (surprisingly, it didn’t even drip) and I’m going back in a few days once I’ve had a chance to get to the plumbing shop.

Okay, so that’s the story. The question (or questions) I’m looking for is.. I can’t replace the main piece of plastic pipe, though at the moment it is fine, no damage at all. All the rust/sludge buildup happened past the first pipe’s connection, leaving the pipe fully intact. I have to replace both elbow joints and two small pieces of plastic pipe, should I replace them with the same types as they have now? Is there a better option?

I’m not familiar with connecting metal to plastic. I have a pile of washers but I seem to recall my mother telling me years ago something to do with plastic and plumber’s tape. Do I need something besides a simple washer for this project?

Worst case scenario is they have no water for 24 hours and call in an out of town plumber. But I’m hoping I can resolve this for them without it coming to that.

  read more…

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